Hey everybody!
Here is just a really short update to inform you that I have safely arrived in the Netherlands! I'm currently at my brothers- and sisters place in Utrecht and will be going to my actual home tonight :).
When I get back home home I will write some final conclusion and upload some more pictures. Thanks a lot for reading!
Very short summary:
So I did it! I walked to Assisi as well! Together with Elena, one of the Italian girls I met on during the last couple of days before Rome. It was hard to walk the 25km a day, because everything was in the mountains and very straining, but I LOVED it all, marvelous sights and landscapes and a lot of fun together with Elena! There where no official places for pilgrims along this route, so every night we had fun trying to find a good place to sleep for free, and usually that worked out well :). Finally the same kind of adventure I had missed a bit for the last month or so. The last 3 days Eleonora also came in, and the last day Furio and Vittorio joined the club, and we walked to Assisi, where we watched the nicest churches and the tomb of St. Francis. Also the Maria Degli Angeli with the very special and intruiging small temple inside. I think along this trip we have visited more cracks in rocks where the guy had slept than anyone else :). So this part of the trip was very St. Francis-themed. Along the trip we encountered some other pilgrims who where walking in the other direction, and we had nice interaction with them. Unfortunately they usually either talked Dutch or German so Elena was kind of standing there ;). But one Dutch guy insisted on talking English with me so she could understand as well, wich was very considerate of him.
So I've learned quite a bit of new Italian here as well, because Elena kept correcting me when making mistakes and slowly my Italian formed into a partially understandable shape :).
Furio gave me a shirt of his hometown Castiglion Fiorentino, and he had also practiced whistling with his hands! So a constant whistling-with-your-hands battle emerged. Haha.
Well basically after touring around in Assisi for 3 hours or so we went by car to their hometown where I was welcomed to a house with a swimming pool! We had 3 days together and then it was time for me to leave to my parents in Liguria, where they where on vacation. There was an absolute paradise, no electricity, a lovely small stream/current and beautifull peacefull nature. After that I set out to Frankfurt to go to my first AYUDH camp there! Because my best friend Joy had invited me for this event. It is pretty hard to describe in short words, but basically it was a group of 130 young people talking/meditating/doing tai chi/eating great food and hugging all the time, with the theme "Give peace a chance". For info: . The fact that I'll be attending next year is as sure as the sun coming up tomorrow! (I really hope it does :P).
So then me and Joy went back by train and now I'm here! On my brothers computer :).
Thanks a lot for reading, more interesting thoughts will be added when I get back home or feel like it :).
Pace e bene ;)
Ilja
PS: I miss you Elena! And I miss everybody from the camp a lot!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
Moar updateh :)
Day 102
Because I only had to walk 25km today I woke up a little later, then set out along nice walking paths which ended in walking parallel to the ss2 Via Cassia, which was not as nice. Before the Cassia I met the Italians and Reinald in a small village, then set out again. After walking along the Cassia for a long time I arrived near a fresh spring, where I stayed for about forty minutes playing with the water, drinking a lot and bathing my head ;). Then I walked on to Campagnano di Roma where I found a nice place to sleep with matrasses and a shower. Shortly after the others arrived, and we where all invited for dinner. Luckily I found 5 euros on the way which I donated here ;). Me and the Italians went to dinner which was great (plastic plates and everything, but the food was good and we had lots of fun). Then we where forced to hear a concert of musiscians that wheren't reaaaally good, but it was fun. And I posed with some stupid costume in front of the elevator ;).
Day 103
I woke up early today to set out at 6:30. After about one and a half hour of nice walking paths through forest and beautifull hills I bumped into Fuorio, Vittorio, Mario, Elena and Eleonora. (ok, from now on "the Italians" again ;)). We went together from there on, and it was great because these people know how to travel in a group. No need to talk all the time, and if you walk 100 meters ahead or behind it doesn't matter. After a long break in Isola Farnese we arrived in La Storta at around half past 3. Really nice rooms with a great garden and showers awaited us. I played Peter pan because being relieved of the backpack felt great, and the weather was nice :).
Day 104
We woke up early to avoid heat and traffic (everything along asphalt today), and I had banana bread breakfast. After 7km I bumped into the Italians again, because they had just had breakfast in the bar, and we set out together to Monte Mario, where we took a break to enjoy the FIRST VIEW OF ROME! It really felt weird to suddenly be (almost) finished. We went to Saint Peter to get some stamp for the credentials but the guy wasn't there. After that somehow the Pope came to his window and spoke to the people so I saw the Pope on my first day in Rome. But it didn't exactly move me haha. Then I said goodbye to Mario, Vittorio and Fuorio, which moved me more than seeing the Pope. Luckily Elena and Eleonora where going to come with me to the Casa per Pellegrini here in Rome.
So from here on I won't create daily descriptions because it'd be rather boring. Instead I'll just summarise it all.
We arrived in the hospice, but had to come back at five, so we spent the rest of the day in the park eating pinoli's (pijnboompitten!) and playing around. Then we got to know Luigi, who is a great guy, interesting friendly and above all: the best cook I saw in a long time :). Reinald also was in the house :). The next morning we went to Saint Peter to get the diploma, but in my oppinion it was rather boring, because teh guy tried speaking German, and gave us a tour to the catacombs with a not-that-interesting talk about something that I did not quite understand due to the lack of his German. But we had 3 minutes of silence, which I used to actually PRAY for the people who have helped me along my path in the last 3 months. It was also funny to see how the guy responded after I told him I wasn't a Christian, but "aperto per tuti" (open to all), and then he wanted to know what my parents or grandparents where (Katholic or Protestant or something). After finally getting the really nice diploma we went to the beach, and I enjoyed it a lot. That evening Luigi told us that we where all allowed to stay for 3 days, even though normally you only get 2. In the evening we had an interesting discussion about the word "Pilgrim", because Reinald said that I was not a pilgrim because I'm not a christian, and I said it was nonsense because being Christian isn't what makes a pilgrim a pilgrim. An interesting discussion followed that turned into a discussion about Dutch people being very direct ;). But I enjoyed it, and because of this got to know Luigi a lot better.
The next day we went to the city, walking together with Reinald to Campo de' Fiori along a nice orange garden. Then we visited Fontana di Trevi, Piazza di Spagna and some other stuff, and then Reinald left to catch his train! If you read this: thanks a lot for our encounter! Then me, Elena and Eleonora walked around town some more and then had to say goodbye at the trainstation. We kept saying goodbye because their train was about half an hour late, but then they where gone.
It really felt weird to be alone again after a long time of seeing people who I already knew every day. And also being finished felt weird! I used to have this goal for more than a year! Walking to Rome! And now I was done! I had this feeling of being free and not knowing what to do for one day, and then realised that I could see my life as sort of a trip, and that I was not done by far. Still something knawed and I wanted to go to Assisi, but didn't know weather to go on foot or by train. By now the new plan has arisen to go to Assisi with Elena and Eleonora! I'm really looking forward to that.
Luigi sneakily called a lady from Rai1 (national italian radio) and I had an interview in Italian :O). I don't know how it turned out because it was on last sunday at 11:35 am, but the woman said she'd email me the file later. I'm not particularly proud of it because I read most of it out loud and then they'd cut out the mistakes ;).
I also met Don Paulo who is the guy who runs the place. He took me to the largest catacombs in Rome and it was great to sit on the back of a scooter in Rome ;). I was also told I could stay here untill the 30th if I helped clean/cook/do dishes etc. which is great!
Two new hospitalieri's arrived and I had to say goodbye to Luigi. Two pilgrims arrived, a Dutch man named Robbert and a French girl named Anaiis (no i with " available here ;)). I met my uncle and his wife yesterday because they happened to be in Rome, and it was fun. And from there on I basically went to the city every day, watching stuff like the Colloseum, Foro Romano, and a lot of churches (nice art!). And that's basically it! I think that once my Camino starts again (to Assisi) it will be more interesting to update this blog.
Afterwards I'll be sure to make some evaluations and write down some more thoughts and everything.
Thanks for reading!
Lots of love,
Ilja
Because I only had to walk 25km today I woke up a little later, then set out along nice walking paths which ended in walking parallel to the ss2 Via Cassia, which was not as nice. Before the Cassia I met the Italians and Reinald in a small village, then set out again. After walking along the Cassia for a long time I arrived near a fresh spring, where I stayed for about forty minutes playing with the water, drinking a lot and bathing my head ;). Then I walked on to Campagnano di Roma where I found a nice place to sleep with matrasses and a shower. Shortly after the others arrived, and we where all invited for dinner. Luckily I found 5 euros on the way which I donated here ;). Me and the Italians went to dinner which was great (plastic plates and everything, but the food was good and we had lots of fun). Then we where forced to hear a concert of musiscians that wheren't reaaaally good, but it was fun. And I posed with some stupid costume in front of the elevator ;).
Day 103
I woke up early today to set out at 6:30. After about one and a half hour of nice walking paths through forest and beautifull hills I bumped into Fuorio, Vittorio, Mario, Elena and Eleonora. (ok, from now on "the Italians" again ;)). We went together from there on, and it was great because these people know how to travel in a group. No need to talk all the time, and if you walk 100 meters ahead or behind it doesn't matter. After a long break in Isola Farnese we arrived in La Storta at around half past 3. Really nice rooms with a great garden and showers awaited us. I played Peter pan because being relieved of the backpack felt great, and the weather was nice :).
Day 104
We woke up early to avoid heat and traffic (everything along asphalt today), and I had banana bread breakfast. After 7km I bumped into the Italians again, because they had just had breakfast in the bar, and we set out together to Monte Mario, where we took a break to enjoy the FIRST VIEW OF ROME! It really felt weird to suddenly be (almost) finished. We went to Saint Peter to get some stamp for the credentials but the guy wasn't there. After that somehow the Pope came to his window and spoke to the people so I saw the Pope on my first day in Rome. But it didn't exactly move me haha. Then I said goodbye to Mario, Vittorio and Fuorio, which moved me more than seeing the Pope. Luckily Elena and Eleonora where going to come with me to the Casa per Pellegrini here in Rome.
So from here on I won't create daily descriptions because it'd be rather boring. Instead I'll just summarise it all.
We arrived in the hospice, but had to come back at five, so we spent the rest of the day in the park eating pinoli's (pijnboompitten!) and playing around. Then we got to know Luigi, who is a great guy, interesting friendly and above all: the best cook I saw in a long time :). Reinald also was in the house :). The next morning we went to Saint Peter to get the diploma, but in my oppinion it was rather boring, because teh guy tried speaking German, and gave us a tour to the catacombs with a not-that-interesting talk about something that I did not quite understand due to the lack of his German. But we had 3 minutes of silence, which I used to actually PRAY for the people who have helped me along my path in the last 3 months. It was also funny to see how the guy responded after I told him I wasn't a Christian, but "aperto per tuti" (open to all), and then he wanted to know what my parents or grandparents where (Katholic or Protestant or something). After finally getting the really nice diploma we went to the beach, and I enjoyed it a lot. That evening Luigi told us that we where all allowed to stay for 3 days, even though normally you only get 2. In the evening we had an interesting discussion about the word "Pilgrim", because Reinald said that I was not a pilgrim because I'm not a christian, and I said it was nonsense because being Christian isn't what makes a pilgrim a pilgrim. An interesting discussion followed that turned into a discussion about Dutch people being very direct ;). But I enjoyed it, and because of this got to know Luigi a lot better.
The next day we went to the city, walking together with Reinald to Campo de' Fiori along a nice orange garden. Then we visited Fontana di Trevi, Piazza di Spagna and some other stuff, and then Reinald left to catch his train! If you read this: thanks a lot for our encounter! Then me, Elena and Eleonora walked around town some more and then had to say goodbye at the trainstation. We kept saying goodbye because their train was about half an hour late, but then they where gone.
It really felt weird to be alone again after a long time of seeing people who I already knew every day. And also being finished felt weird! I used to have this goal for more than a year! Walking to Rome! And now I was done! I had this feeling of being free and not knowing what to do for one day, and then realised that I could see my life as sort of a trip, and that I was not done by far. Still something knawed and I wanted to go to Assisi, but didn't know weather to go on foot or by train. By now the new plan has arisen to go to Assisi with Elena and Eleonora! I'm really looking forward to that.
Luigi sneakily called a lady from Rai1 (national italian radio) and I had an interview in Italian :O). I don't know how it turned out because it was on last sunday at 11:35 am, but the woman said she'd email me the file later. I'm not particularly proud of it because I read most of it out loud and then they'd cut out the mistakes ;).
I also met Don Paulo who is the guy who runs the place. He took me to the largest catacombs in Rome and it was great to sit on the back of a scooter in Rome ;). I was also told I could stay here untill the 30th if I helped clean/cook/do dishes etc. which is great!
Two new hospitalieri's arrived and I had to say goodbye to Luigi. Two pilgrims arrived, a Dutch man named Robbert and a French girl named Anaiis (no i with " available here ;)). I met my uncle and his wife yesterday because they happened to be in Rome, and it was fun. And from there on I basically went to the city every day, watching stuff like the Colloseum, Foro Romano, and a lot of churches (nice art!). And that's basically it! I think that once my Camino starts again (to Assisi) it will be more interesting to update this blog.
Afterwards I'll be sure to make some evaluations and write down some more thoughts and everything.
Thanks for reading!
Lots of love,
Ilja
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
I'm done! And yet I'm still moving :)
Day 99
After the internet cafe I set out at around half past 11. A nice road, first part asphalt but after only strada bianca. After around 20km of that I arrived in Bolsena, where Furio (if it's Fuorio tell me and I'll make it Furlio ;P), Mario and Vittorio told me that there was no more place in the free hospice, so I'd have to go to the other one. I also got to know two other pilgrims, the daughter of Vittorio and a friend of hers. So I walked the extra 2km up-hill to a nice place, where I could stay for 21 euros. (No breakfast, but a single room). Reinald was staying there as well but was somewhere in town. The woman who ran the place spoke Dutch, which was quite usefull because later on I could ask her to call ahead for the next night. I ate dinner in the really beautifull garden, while watching the sun set.
Day 100
After a good night's sleep I woke up really early and after a small breakfast (and a shower, but I don't mention that because if there is a shower, I take one every evening and morning ;)) I set out at 6:24. A very nice forestroad awaited me. But it was really hard to navigate since the markings wheren't exactly clear and the map was not detailed enough. But I kept going and enjoyed the nice little river, and somehow I ended up on the right road. During the last 5km or so my feet really started hurting, but I kept going and arrived in Viterbo after about 32km. A nice town with a complex old-town and no place in beds anymore. But I was allowed to sleep on the floor, and they had a shower so I felt happy. Later Reinald arrived, and even later the rest. After quite a bit of discussion about getting beds the people who where already in the beds allowed the Italians to sleep in their room (where there where still 5 free beds).
Day 101
After sleeping quite good I woke up early (5:20) and after a silent breakfast so as to not wake up my roommate Eleonora, I set out. Pane Salato (salted bread) is the only bread here that is edible ;). It was hot, but the road provided lots of shadow which made it doable. After a while the indications deviated from my map, and I decided to follow them because otherwise I'd have to walk along the SS2 Via Cassia, which isn't particularly appealing. It was a nice road, and after getting lost because of bad indications I arrived on a dusty Strada Bianca in Capranica. I ran into Reinald several times, and we walked together for a bit. In Capranica 3 laughing Italians where awaiting us in a bar because they had decided to take a bus half-way. Again no beds and this time not even a shower, but a large room with place on the ground which worked fine for me.
Oh damn, I am late for dinner! More updates later!
Thanks for reading, and hi to my new friends Furio, Mario, Vittorio, Elena, Eleonora and Reinald :).
After the internet cafe I set out at around half past 11. A nice road, first part asphalt but after only strada bianca. After around 20km of that I arrived in Bolsena, where Furio (if it's Fuorio tell me and I'll make it Furlio ;P), Mario and Vittorio told me that there was no more place in the free hospice, so I'd have to go to the other one. I also got to know two other pilgrims, the daughter of Vittorio and a friend of hers. So I walked the extra 2km up-hill to a nice place, where I could stay for 21 euros. (No breakfast, but a single room). Reinald was staying there as well but was somewhere in town. The woman who ran the place spoke Dutch, which was quite usefull because later on I could ask her to call ahead for the next night. I ate dinner in the really beautifull garden, while watching the sun set.
Day 100
After a good night's sleep I woke up really early and after a small breakfast (and a shower, but I don't mention that because if there is a shower, I take one every evening and morning ;)) I set out at 6:24. A very nice forestroad awaited me. But it was really hard to navigate since the markings wheren't exactly clear and the map was not detailed enough. But I kept going and enjoyed the nice little river, and somehow I ended up on the right road. During the last 5km or so my feet really started hurting, but I kept going and arrived in Viterbo after about 32km. A nice town with a complex old-town and no place in beds anymore. But I was allowed to sleep on the floor, and they had a shower so I felt happy. Later Reinald arrived, and even later the rest. After quite a bit of discussion about getting beds the people who where already in the beds allowed the Italians to sleep in their room (where there where still 5 free beds).
Day 101
After sleeping quite good I woke up early (5:20) and after a silent breakfast so as to not wake up my roommate Eleonora, I set out. Pane Salato (salted bread) is the only bread here that is edible ;). It was hot, but the road provided lots of shadow which made it doable. After a while the indications deviated from my map, and I decided to follow them because otherwise I'd have to walk along the SS2 Via Cassia, which isn't particularly appealing. It was a nice road, and after getting lost because of bad indications I arrived on a dusty Strada Bianca in Capranica. I ran into Reinald several times, and we walked together for a bit. In Capranica 3 laughing Italians where awaiting us in a bar because they had decided to take a bus half-way. Again no beds and this time not even a shower, but a large room with place on the ground which worked fine for me.
Oh damn, I am late for dinner! More updates later!
Thanks for reading, and hi to my new friends Furio, Mario, Vittorio, Elena, Eleonora and Reinald :).
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Daily descriptions
So It's the next morning, and since I only have to walk 20 km today, I thought I'd do this as well.
Day 91
After having a strawberry ice cream breakfast on a public bench, I set out into the world again. About halfway there (haha) I met a group of 29 people, half German half Italian who where walking to Rome in 3 etappes. The jovial people invited me for lunch, and after a great lunch I walked the rest of the journey with those who wanted to walk. (About ten, because the rest of the day was only asphalt). It was great fun, good for my Italian and very good for my state of mind. We walked to San Miniano Basso, where a roadsign pointed pilgrims to a hospice. We said goodbye (they slept in a hostel since they where with so many) and I went to the Misericordia where a nice room awaited me. The guy who took care of the pilgrims made me a very nice printout and wrote everything down carefully.
Day 92
After a carrot and fruit breakfast it was time to set out again. A lot of nice, rather muddy country roads awaited me and I got to see more than one big snakes! I saw a lot of footprints so I was expecting to meet the large group again, but that didn't happen. I did meet a couple who where going to Rome by bike, but they had a flat tire. I arrived in Gambassi Therme, where after waiting quite long the priest showed me the place to stay. It was a large room with some dirty toilets and a place on the floor. It was also quite funny that that evening the local Rockband had band practice in this building and I had a private rock-concert! It was actually enjoyable, even though I was already in bed and their instruments kept making squeeky sounds somehow. But I had bought me some earplugs earlier, and it is remarkable how well they worked. I think it was a good thing that the cyclists decided to walk on to San Gimignano to have thier bikes repaired there.
Day 93
I set out at 8 to buy me breakfast and felt happy for having slept well even though the floor was hard and the rockband played untill late. On the way I met two Swiss pilgrims who where walking from Rome to Switserland. I walked along fairly nice roads to San Gimignano, of which I had high expectations because everytime I mentioned it people started drooling and looking dreamy. It was really nice, but the high expectations kind of ruined it for me. A lot of tourists everywhere. It was fun to be able to eavesdrop on their conversations, a thing I hadn't done for a while because everybody talked Italian. A lot of Dutch people, Germans, English people and Americans. After relaxing on the main square I set out to Colle di Val d'Elsa and after being refused in the central place I had to walk another 5km in the wrong direction to Le Grazie. A large group of people my age where standing outside, and after being showed the room and everything (which was a lot better than yesterday) by the priest I asked them about the directions for tomorrow. It was quite fun.
Day 94
I woke up really early this morning, to set out at 6:00 after a banana breakfast. There was a really nice atmosphere this early, a bit misty and with nice country roads to accompany that. Unfortunately I didn't walk the shortest way and ended up walking an extra 5-10 km. I walked to Monteriggioni, a very small and beautifull town where the local pilgrim hospice called ahead for me to Siena. After hanging around and admiring the town I set out to walk to Siena, which was stunningly beatifull. Somewhere near the main Piazza I met the German pilgrim Reinald from day 83 again! I went to the place to sleep to drop off my bags, and was welcomed warmly by the assistant of the Sister who normally took care of such things. I was invited for dinner and lunch as well! Then I went to the most amazing building I have seen in my life so far: the dome of Siena. This building invoked the nature-admire state immediately, even though it was no nature :). I met Reinald again on the piazza in front of the dome where I had been sitting for a while while some guy was making dreamy ploing-ploing-music. We went back to the hospice and had dinner there with two volunteers and the assistant. After exchanging experiences I went to bed.
Day 95
Although the food was quite simple it was different from bread with marmelade. Then I and Reinald set out along a strada bianca (non-paved way). Walking alone really is very different from walking in a group. It was fun to see how everytime when a car passed us and kicked up dust Reinald got really annoyed by the uncourtious behaviour of the driver, and I was like "ok". Somehow the road ended suddenly and we had to walk across a large field and then climb a 1,7 m high fence with barbed wire. But it worked out and we arrived in Monteroni d'Arbia where the sister from yesterday had called ahead and we where expected. After buying the necessary stuff and eating most of it on a bench I took a shower and went to bed. It was nice how to get into the room we where told to get the key from under the doormat and just get in there. They just expected us to behave like gentlemen. (Which we obviously did.)
Day 96
After a bread-with-oil breakfastwe set out along a fairly nice road, which turned into a large asphalt road after Buenconvento. After a while we decided to follow the markings in stead of the map, and had a really nice long walk through the hills of Tuscany. We met 3 Italian pilgrims who had just started this morning and I talked a lot to Reinald. In San Quirico d'Orcia we met the 3 Italians again, and a really friendly "don" or priest showed us the place. He also did his best to create new credentials for me because I was running out of place for stamps. I prepared me some tortellini's and then went to bed.
Day 97
This was a great day! I set out at 8 and after a bread-with-salt breakfast (normal bread is disgusting and tasteless here)I told Reinald I'd like to walk alone again, for at least a part of the road. I think that was a good choice, because somehow walking alone is great :). (And I didn't want to be distracted by complaints about dust and dangerous cars, even though the normal conversations where interesting). I had great views, the weather was ideal: hard wind, clouded and fresh and here and there a little bit of rain. In Radicofani a super hospitable German woman ran the San Jacopo di Compostella house. After taking a shower and washing my stuff Reinald came in, and after that the 3 Italians. I went up to the tower because Helna recommended that, and it was absolutely beautifull. The flip-flops I had bought this morning payed off, because I actually ran all the way up, and loved it. Great atmosphere, misty, slightly rainy with a rainbow. There was nobody up there, so I sneaked to the tower (without paying the 4 euros entrance fee ;)) and enjoyed the sneaky runny feeling. When I came back we had a really interesting ritual, where Helna washed our feet and blessed us. It felt weird because obviously the feet wheren't exactly kissing-worthy, but also very respecatable. Kissing and washing a guests feet must be the most hospitable thing you can do.
After that a great dinner awaited me and it became a really nice laughing evening, because one of the Italians was really really fast in his jokes (mostly about Germans). Also nice to notice how I could understand nearly everything. Talking back was a little harder, but it worked out. I think this day might have been this good because it was my best friends birthday ;).
Day 98
After a good breakfast (that was also included) I went shopping with Reinald and Helna, then set out alone again. A really lovely road awaited me, 10km no asphalt and lovely views in nice weather. The second half of the road was all on the large ss2 from Siena to Rome. I met two Austrian cyclist pilgrims who where very friendly and invited me for something to eat. After the chocolate bready thingie Iwalked to Aquapendente where I called the number of the local pilgrim hospice. The 3 Italians arrived shortly after that, but they went to a different pilgrim hospice. I looked up an internet cafe to write the last "original update". In the evening Reinald and I went out for dinner because it was supposed to be cheaper for pilgrims. It was good food but not really that cheap.
Day 99 Today.
Obviously nothing much has happened so far since it is now 11:11 a.m.
I have to get going again, otherwise I won't arrive in time :).
Thanks for reading, If you read this, don't miss the last update that might be more fun to read.
Ciao!
Ilja
ps: the pictures are from new to old somehow...
Day 91
After having a strawberry ice cream breakfast on a public bench, I set out into the world again. About halfway there (haha) I met a group of 29 people, half German half Italian who where walking to Rome in 3 etappes. The jovial people invited me for lunch, and after a great lunch I walked the rest of the journey with those who wanted to walk. (About ten, because the rest of the day was only asphalt). It was great fun, good for my Italian and very good for my state of mind. We walked to San Miniano Basso, where a roadsign pointed pilgrims to a hospice. We said goodbye (they slept in a hostel since they where with so many) and I went to the Misericordia where a nice room awaited me. The guy who took care of the pilgrims made me a very nice printout and wrote everything down carefully.
Day 92
After a carrot and fruit breakfast it was time to set out again. A lot of nice, rather muddy country roads awaited me and I got to see more than one big snakes! I saw a lot of footprints so I was expecting to meet the large group again, but that didn't happen. I did meet a couple who where going to Rome by bike, but they had a flat tire. I arrived in Gambassi Therme, where after waiting quite long the priest showed me the place to stay. It was a large room with some dirty toilets and a place on the floor. It was also quite funny that that evening the local Rockband had band practice in this building and I had a private rock-concert! It was actually enjoyable, even though I was already in bed and their instruments kept making squeeky sounds somehow. But I had bought me some earplugs earlier, and it is remarkable how well they worked. I think it was a good thing that the cyclists decided to walk on to San Gimignano to have thier bikes repaired there.
Day 93
I set out at 8 to buy me breakfast and felt happy for having slept well even though the floor was hard and the rockband played untill late. On the way I met two Swiss pilgrims who where walking from Rome to Switserland. I walked along fairly nice roads to San Gimignano, of which I had high expectations because everytime I mentioned it people started drooling and looking dreamy. It was really nice, but the high expectations kind of ruined it for me. A lot of tourists everywhere. It was fun to be able to eavesdrop on their conversations, a thing I hadn't done for a while because everybody talked Italian. A lot of Dutch people, Germans, English people and Americans. After relaxing on the main square I set out to Colle di Val d'Elsa and after being refused in the central place I had to walk another 5km in the wrong direction to Le Grazie. A large group of people my age where standing outside, and after being showed the room and everything (which was a lot better than yesterday) by the priest I asked them about the directions for tomorrow. It was quite fun.
Day 94
I woke up really early this morning, to set out at 6:00 after a banana breakfast. There was a really nice atmosphere this early, a bit misty and with nice country roads to accompany that. Unfortunately I didn't walk the shortest way and ended up walking an extra 5-10 km. I walked to Monteriggioni, a very small and beautifull town where the local pilgrim hospice called ahead for me to Siena. After hanging around and admiring the town I set out to walk to Siena, which was stunningly beatifull. Somewhere near the main Piazza I met the German pilgrim Reinald from day 83 again! I went to the place to sleep to drop off my bags, and was welcomed warmly by the assistant of the Sister who normally took care of such things. I was invited for dinner and lunch as well! Then I went to the most amazing building I have seen in my life so far: the dome of Siena. This building invoked the nature-admire state immediately, even though it was no nature :). I met Reinald again on the piazza in front of the dome where I had been sitting for a while while some guy was making dreamy ploing-ploing-music. We went back to the hospice and had dinner there with two volunteers and the assistant. After exchanging experiences I went to bed.
Day 95
Although the food was quite simple it was different from bread with marmelade. Then I and Reinald set out along a strada bianca (non-paved way). Walking alone really is very different from walking in a group. It was fun to see how everytime when a car passed us and kicked up dust Reinald got really annoyed by the uncourtious behaviour of the driver, and I was like "ok". Somehow the road ended suddenly and we had to walk across a large field and then climb a 1,7 m high fence with barbed wire. But it worked out and we arrived in Monteroni d'Arbia where the sister from yesterday had called ahead and we where expected. After buying the necessary stuff and eating most of it on a bench I took a shower and went to bed. It was nice how to get into the room we where told to get the key from under the doormat and just get in there. They just expected us to behave like gentlemen. (Which we obviously did.)
Day 96
After a bread-with-oil breakfastwe set out along a fairly nice road, which turned into a large asphalt road after Buenconvento. After a while we decided to follow the markings in stead of the map, and had a really nice long walk through the hills of Tuscany. We met 3 Italian pilgrims who had just started this morning and I talked a lot to Reinald. In San Quirico d'Orcia we met the 3 Italians again, and a really friendly "don" or priest showed us the place. He also did his best to create new credentials for me because I was running out of place for stamps. I prepared me some tortellini's and then went to bed.
Day 97
This was a great day! I set out at 8 and after a bread-with-salt breakfast (normal bread is disgusting and tasteless here)I told Reinald I'd like to walk alone again, for at least a part of the road. I think that was a good choice, because somehow walking alone is great :). (And I didn't want to be distracted by complaints about dust and dangerous cars, even though the normal conversations where interesting). I had great views, the weather was ideal: hard wind, clouded and fresh and here and there a little bit of rain. In Radicofani a super hospitable German woman ran the San Jacopo di Compostella house. After taking a shower and washing my stuff Reinald came in, and after that the 3 Italians. I went up to the tower because Helna recommended that, and it was absolutely beautifull. The flip-flops I had bought this morning payed off, because I actually ran all the way up, and loved it. Great atmosphere, misty, slightly rainy with a rainbow. There was nobody up there, so I sneaked to the tower (without paying the 4 euros entrance fee ;)) and enjoyed the sneaky runny feeling. When I came back we had a really interesting ritual, where Helna washed our feet and blessed us. It felt weird because obviously the feet wheren't exactly kissing-worthy, but also very respecatable. Kissing and washing a guests feet must be the most hospitable thing you can do.
After that a great dinner awaited me and it became a really nice laughing evening, because one of the Italians was really really fast in his jokes (mostly about Germans). Also nice to notice how I could understand nearly everything. Talking back was a little harder, but it worked out. I think this day might have been this good because it was my best friends birthday ;).
Day 98
After a good breakfast (that was also included) I went shopping with Reinald and Helna, then set out alone again. A really lovely road awaited me, 10km no asphalt and lovely views in nice weather. The second half of the road was all on the large ss2 from Siena to Rome. I met two Austrian cyclist pilgrims who where very friendly and invited me for something to eat. After the chocolate bready thingie Iwalked to Aquapendente where I called the number of the local pilgrim hospice. The 3 Italians arrived shortly after that, but they went to a different pilgrim hospice. I looked up an internet cafe to write the last "original update". In the evening Reinald and I went out for dinner because it was supposed to be cheaper for pilgrims. It was good food but not really that cheap.
Day 99 Today.
Obviously nothing much has happened so far since it is now 11:11 a.m.
I have to get going again, otherwise I won't arrive in time :).
Thanks for reading, If you read this, don't miss the last update that might be more fun to read.
Ciao!
Ilja
ps: the pictures are from new to old somehow...
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