Sunday, May 17, 2009

Ticino river floods and Agriturismo

Day 66 - the rest of the day
So after updating, I went to the railway station to meet Bernard. After waiting in the sun, there came a green car with a smiling and waving man who was instantly recognisable as an artist/actor. I only then found out that he in fact doesn't live in Bellinzona, but in a small village 30km away, and that he had driven all the way just to come get me. On the road he told me about his job as a clown (not the usual make-up act stupid clown, but more sophisticated ;)) and his acting group etc. It was interesting, and made me want to go acting again. That evening we went to meet an elderly woman who was like Bernard's second mom, and we went out for dinner. It was fun and the food was very good. That evening he gave me a German-Italian small dictionary (which I use almost every day while trying to think in Italian) and sugar (for emergencies).

Day 67
I woke up early because Bernard had to be somewhere at 9:00. He brought me back to Bellinzona (no cheating haha, thanks very much!) from where I went in the direction of Isone. (After getting lost a bit in the town). I had to climb/walk up very very steep for a couple of hours. Have you ever tried walking up a stairs that is 10km long and very unregular? That was kind of how this felt. But then finally I arrived in some military area with soldiers walking around with guns to train for something. Then from Isone on to Tesserete, where (after asking around for a long time) I found a rather expensive bed and breakfast that actually didn't have any rooms anymore, but because I asked so nicely I could have one. The woman was very nice, and after a good shower and everything I went to bed.

Day 68
After a good breakfast and awnsering several questions about my trip I got a huge discount. (Originally 50CHF, now 30CHF. That's around 20 euros). I set out in the direction of Lugano, where I arrived after walking on quite a bit of asphalt. And there I cheated big time, there was a small train going up to a very steep mountain, and I made up the excuse for myself that otherwise I'd not be able to catch my boat. So then I walked down along a very nice forest path (steep, rocky, but going down) to Morcote. There where no boats headed to Porto Ceresio anymore, but I was advised to go to Brussino Arsizio instead, and walk 4km extra on the other side. (Which made up for the cheating ;)). In Brussino Arsizio I started looking around, and after a while I asked in a restaurant and was allowed to sleep in a boat! But not a regular boat, but a small boat that was lying on the coast for the children to play with. But it had a roof and was kind of watertight. Later that night the restaurant owner offered me a shower. Oh, and I had a great view on Morcote and the lake.

Day 69
I slept quite well, even though it rained and I had to put my rainpants over my feet so my sleeping bag wouldn't get too wet. Then I walked to Porto Ceresio where I crossed the border to Italy, and after looking around a bit bumped into the markings of the E1 again. On the way I passed a group of people of around my age! What? People my age, walking in the forest? It was funny to see that they all had to wait all the time for 2 girls who where way slower. It made me appreciate my walking alone more. So after conquering a couple of mountains I came to Brinzio, where I aksed around in a bar and met 2 dutch-speaking people. I got some food for all the cash money I had (a 0.53 or so) and a mountain bike guy told me I could possibly sleep in a hut nearby. I went there, to find a large group of youthfull people celebrating something, and waited sneakily in the woods/on benches untill they where all gone. Then I made my bed under the roof and hoped nobody would come to disturb me tonight. I really didn't eat enough today, but I still feel ok. (So little I even wrote it down: 3 apples, 3 bars of chocolate, 1 banana, 1 cheese sandwich, 1 mars, 1 piece of cake which I got after asking for a water refill).

Day 70
Whaaat? This night at 23:50 a car came driving up next to the hut! I was scared so bad, but after a while I heard young people's voices and it sounded like a boy and a girl preparing to go out later on. Finally they took off agian, without having spotted me, and I went back to sleep. In the morning went back to the town to buy me breakfast, but found out that there was no cash machine, and the bakery didn't have one either... But they decided to give me whatever I'd usually buy for free! In exchange for a postcard from Rome. But because it was for free, I felt like I couldn't just take everything, and only took a bread and chocolate. (for on the bread). I walked really long again along nice steep roads, and I didn't feel very well. Drinking water made it worse, and I didn't have any food along so I just kept on going. In Gavirate I wanted to go to a cheap hotel, but after going there and feeling even more weak it turned out they where closed. So I asked around in half Italian, and tried to find a place, anything would suffice now because I just had to rest. Then 2 people offered me a ride to the next town where there surely where possibilities. After accepting I suddenly felt very bad and went outside because it felt like I had to puke, which I didn't have to, but I did nearly collapse and had to lie down. The man who had offered me a ride helped me, and held up my legs while feeding me some candy. I had to wet my wrists and back of the head, and after waiting in this strange position for 5 minutes i felt better. It was probably due to lack of minerals/vitamines or proteines or somehting. Anyway, they took me along to Ispra, after asking around several places along the way. They asked the railway station man if I couldn't sleep there, but he'd have to ask his collegue who'd arrive later on. So we went to dinner and after eating a lot of healthy food (risotto) I felt much better. We drove back to the railway station and after asking the collegue it was ok, but I'd have to be gone by 6:00 the next morning.

Day 71
Sleeping didn't go as well as planned, because it was light in the railway station, every now and then a train came by, and there where dogs in the neighbourhood barking the happy feeling right out of me. (haha). I ate a lot of carrots and bread to gain strength again, and then in the afternoon I felt all right again. Then somewhere around Sesto Calende I got lost because of the bad markings, but after speaking to some Dutch people in a supermarket I found my way again. I walked to Somma Lombardo where the cheap hotel didn't have any rooms available, and I had to sleep in an expensive hotel with which wasn't that good at all. (waterstains on the walls, really noisy at night etc.) Then I went to bed, and was called by Benedikt, my mother and my sister all independently :). It really made me feel better after a rather boring day.

Day 72
I found out that the people along the way here are really flabbergasted when I tell them what I'm doing. More and more people in this area have the "you're crazy" response, in stead of the "wow that's cool" response to which I've gotten used to. The walking road was really boring today, mostly concrete along a canal, or a walking path that was so small that I was driven crazy by the cobwebs. And the roads here have a tendency to suddenly just stop, and you then have to walk through the actual forest or field, which is not very good for the shoes and pants.
I spoke to a nice english speaking man, and later on some guy of around 35 or so. He was just asking the regular questions and I tried to awnser in Italian and it was all right, and then after I walked on he came after me and suddenly asked: "Do you want to do sex with me?" ehm... no. Later on I thought I should have said: "Tempting, but no!" (go watch Willow now!). Then in Turbigo I asked around and found a way to expensive hotel. So I kept on going and asked if I could maybe sleep in a party tent next to a bar. It was okay and great fun too, very nice people. And there was a great couch in the tent so I could sleep softly. (And it was safe because the gates around the area where closed).

Day 73
After sleeping very well and eating a pizza bread breakfast which I got for free yesterday I set out again. Along fairly nice roads I walked to a house and asked for directions. The woman didn't speak English or German so she asked her neighbour, Andrea for help. He asked me where I was going to sleep and then called the agriturimso Bulloria (where I had passed by 4km ago). I could sleep there! He then drove me to the next best town to a book store, because apparently the Via Francigena goes through Pavia, where I'll be in a couple of days. And it goes directly to Rome. I bought a good map of the road because it does seem attractive, and Andrea then drove me to the Agriturismo. He couldn't be there himself that evening because he had to work, but he did invite me to eat a good dinner in the restaurant. The food was absolutely magnificent and delicious, and eating vegetarian isn't a big problem in Italy either :). Ballira was the guy who served everything, and it was nice speaking to him too. Andrea also talked me through the road, and told me which parts where a must-see. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do, but I know I'll follow the Via Francigena (way of the French) at least partially. Then I went to sleep on the couch I was offered.

Day 74
After waiting for a while, I got a couple of rolls and tea and was ready to leave again. There where a lot of small country roads with views of the farming land... which was not particularly interesting. It was pretty rainy and warm. I walked until 2km after Besate, where I asked in an Agriturismo thing if I could sleep in my sleeping bag somewhere. I could sleep in a real room for free, because there was a lot of water on the floor, and for twenty euros I could have dinner. This was again one of those superb 3 course menus. They eat dinner at 20:30 here! Crazy Italians ;).

Day 75
After breakfast (which I got for free) I set out again. There where a lot of nice forest roads that after walking 2km turned out to be flooded from there on out, causing me to walk all the way back. That actually happened 3 times, and I then decided to follow the boring provincial road. Along the way there where quite a few very friendly people who where interested and gave me the "wow thats cool!" reaction which automatically makes a day much better. And two woman even gave me 30 euros as support! In Torre d'Isola I asked around and was directed to another agriturismo 8km before Pavia. After asking for a sleeping bag location I was offered an 80 euro room for 40. (Damn these reports are way too money-oriented...). I watched TV all night and just enjoyed doing nothing.

Day 76 (Today)
I woke up at around 8:00 to have breakfast and walk the last lousy 8km to Pavia. There I looked up this internet cafe and here I am! I don't know where I'll sleep tonight but it's only 12:09. (but I still have pictures to upload).

Thanks very much for the replies!
Sterre: cool! ja te voet gaat idd redelijk langzaam :) maar het is wel vet tof. Ik ga miss ook nog terug liften ofzo als ik nog tijd heb en het niet te gevaarlijk is. Dankje voor je reactie!

Oop: jeej het is gelukt! Ik weet zelf ook niet hoe dat werkt met reageren, hoef ik namelijk nooit te doen :). Dankjewel, en veel liefs!

Rest: (telephone) dankjullie!

OK now I'll try to upload some pictures, but not all. I'll post that later.



















7 comments:

Anonymous said...

chilldag, yes!!!
Wat een mooie fotoos. We proberen je route uit te vogelen, maar dat valt nog niet mee.
We gaan je gewoon bellen nu zegt Roos.
Kuzzz, moems

Anonymous said...

Stukje over de route voor Ilja:
De Via Francigena is voor de pelgrim te voet zeker geen platgetreden baan. Een behoorlijke routebeschrijving bestaat er eigenlijk (nog) niet van en refugio's zoals die langs de Camino de Santiago voorkomen zijn er niet. Je moet dus zelf je weg maar vinden, naar je eigen smaak: hier en daar over GR's en voetpaden, maar onvermijdelijk ook stukken over het asfalt. Boven de Alpen is dat geen groot probleem, want er zijn gedetailleerde kaarten, veel rustige landweggetjes en het land is meestal dun bevolkt. In Italië is dat wat anders: er zijn weinig betrouwbare en gedetailleerde kaarten en de wegen zitten vol met auto's. Dat betekent dus: zoeken, vragen en proberen en zo nu en dan een stukje terug of overslaan. Maar je gaat er komen, want de mensen gaan je helpen. Het helpt meestal om duidelijk te maken dat je pelgrim bent op weg naar St Pieter. En soms moet je wel eens wat extra tijd nemen om uit te leggen dat je echt gaat lopen en dus de volgende stad die avond niet meer gaat halen en de autoweg geen goed idee vindt.

Roosje said...

Jaa want bellen is toch veel leuker!! MOoi verhaal weer, hoop dat je een goede plek gevonden hebt. Das het nadeel van Couchsurfen, die lui reageren gewoon heel vaak niet :( maar die dudes van benedikt vast wel. succes liefje en spreek je laterrr! dikke knuf en kus van jezus.

Anonymous said...

Lieve Ilja

Samen zitten we te genieten van je reis en al je belevenissen.Wat ontmoet je een boel lieve mensen en steek je veel van deze reis op.Een grens beambte zei eens tegen ons toen we naar Italie gingen: Ïtalia ,no problems" ën we hadden een fijne vacantie.Je noemt allemaal bekende namen en genieten met jou mee.Dankjewel Binky!
Oma dicteert en Opa typt,heel veel liefs van ons.Keep going !! Huggy Huggy.

Unknown said...

Hey Ilja,

Ze hebben net bij polycount je bericht gebumpt :).

Ik heb het laatste deel van je reis gelezen (ik moet de rest nog, lig achter). Maar het klinkt alsof je veel mensen ontmoet en toffe ervaringen hebt! Anyways, keep on walking.

Groeten Charger

Marjolein said...

Wow wat een verhalen weer allemaal. Hoeveel kilometers heb je nu nog ongeveer te gaan en wanneer verwacht je ongeveer aan te komen? Heel veel geluk voor het laatste stuk en veel aardige mensen, stevige ontbijtjes en heerlijk zachte bedjes toegewenst!!

Liefs, nichie Marjolein

ps: Toen ik de foto's bekeek dacht ik heel even in een flits dat ik Jonne zag trouwens, jullie lijken op elkaar nu je ook zulk lang haar hebt ;-)

Anonymous said...

Iljaa!

Je hebt lang niet van me gehoord, maar nu dus wel weer!

Supertof al die dingen die je meemaakt, en nieuwe mensen die (vaak) heel behulpzaam zijn enzo! Echt super!

Over hoeveel dagen denk je in Rome te zijn?

Ik zit nu in m'n examens..heb er nog 3 te gaan! Het is nog even lastig, maar ik hoop dat het goed komt!

We'll stay in touch!
Good luck!

Veel liefss!
Marianne